Today is the day. The day I go to Sihanoukville. The day I finally get to see the school, and my home for the next 11 months. The day I felt like running away. The day my heart broke again and again… and again.
As we boarded the bus and rode past villages, farms and slums along the way, reality hit. Cambodia is poor. Cambodia is tough. Life here is tough. What am I doing here, God? I am not ready for this, Lord! Maybe Phnom Penh but Sihanoukville is poor and dirty and mail takes 3 months to get here! I felt like running away back home. And at the same time felt guilty that I had an option of running away but these people here have no way out.
At that point, the bus turned and I saw the town, the hills and the sea. It was beautiful. And I was ashamed. Ashamed that I am not worthy of the call. Ashamed that I am too much of a princess to care, really care, about the Cambodians. And I was reminded again that God is in control. I could stare at the desperation in the eyes of every Cambodian and back down or I could love and intercede for them. Not because I am able but because I trust that God is more than enough for me and for the Cambodians. And for that moment I knew that this is where God wants me to be. Not just because He told me to go, but because being here, He has told me to stay.
That night, Megan, my roomie from America and fellow teacher, decided to be adventurous and find our way down to the beach. We got off the tuk tuk at some corner and followed a bunch of backpacky, tanned and beachy looking tourists down a small muddy track thinking they should know the way to the beach! Indeed they did. We ended up on a tiny jetty just as the sun was setting on the little cove dotted with a long row of beachside bars and small restaurants. Megan and I made ourselves cosy on papasans facing the sea for dinner.
And that’s when it all started. The kids. I guess I can’t call them street kids but beach kids perhaps - kids peddling bracelets, necklaces and fireworks. They break your heart, frustrate you, amuse you and amaze you at the same time. They’re quick, they’re smart, they speak perfect English and they have perfected the art of puppy-dog eyes. They age from as little as 3 to 16.
The kids I encountered:
1. Got to talk to one 16 year old girl who pestered me into buying 2 bracelets. She goes to high school and her favourite subject is Maths. She pays $25/month to learn English which is why she needs to sell bracelets. I asked her what she wanted to do when she grows up. She said she wants to be a lawyer. It might be me but for that moment I could see her dream. And then it was back to work again. I hope she becomes a lawyer one day.
2. Megan got harassed by this one little boy. Most charming thing ever! He looked about 8. I call him little Jason Mraz – dressed in Bermudas and a loose shirt, topped off with a straw fedora, quick wit and a way with words. He’s almost like a little man. But as he tried to strike a deal with Megan over a game of tic-tack-toe, I saw that little boy in him again. He enjoys games very much. However, that night he wasn’t playing games, he was working.
3. Living under the shadow of the seasoned pros, the younger kids had no chance. There were 2 little sisters in particular who melted my heart. The older looked about 6 and the younger one, 3. They didn’t speak at all and just lurked beside us staring. I gave the little one with her soft curls and plain dress a piece of my bread. She seemed hungry. She looked unsure for a moment but gnawed at it willingly. A moment later, I saw her sharing her bread with her older sister before she ran excitedly into the swash of the sea – perfectly happy in that moment. They hadn’t learnt yet about this dog-eat-dog world. They loved each other and they shared what little they had and enjoyed whatever simple pleasures they could.
The Cambodians are a people that are easy to love but with a culture that is difficult to understand. Giving them what they need materially doesn’t stop poverty. So much financial resources, educational investment and humanitarian aid has been poured into this country. It definitely has gone a looong way! But it does not solve.